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<channel><title><![CDATA[ 2001 Audi S4 Biturbo - B5 Audi Tuning - B5 Audi S4 Progress]]></title><link><![CDATA[http://www.mys4.org/index.html]]></link><description><![CDATA[B5 Audi S4 Progress]]></description><pubDate>Thu, 24 May 2012 12:30:49 -0800</pubDate><generator>Weebly</generator><item><title><![CDATA[Brake Lights Converted to LED's]]></title><link><![CDATA[http://www.mys4.org/1/post/2012/05/brake-lights-converted-to-leds.html]]></link><comments><![CDATA[http://www.mys4.org/1/post/2012/05/brake-lights-converted-to-leds.html#comments]]></comments><pubDate>Tue, 22 May 2012 20:21:10 -0800</pubDate><category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category><guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.mys4.org/1/post/2012/05/brake-lights-converted-to-leds.html</guid><description><![CDATA[I've been wanting to convert my brake lights to LED's for some time now, but simply the technology was just not there yet. I did replace the bulbs for my center brake light in the window some time ago which has worked flawlessly ever since. As for the actual brake lights it was going to be a little bit of an investment. This bulbs aren't cheap. About $17 a bulb which will likely to out last my car.&nbsp;As always I went with  [...] ]]></description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="paragraph" style='text-align:left;'>I've been wanting to convert my brake lights to LED's for some time now, but simply the technology was just not there yet. I did replace the bulbs for my center brake light in the window some time ago which has worked flawlessly ever since. As for the actual brake lights it was going to be a little bit of an investment. This bulbs aren't cheap. About $17 a bulb which will likely to out last my car.&nbsp;As always I went with <a title="" target="_blank" href="http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&amp;Page2Disp=%2Ftail-brake-turn.html">Superbrightleds.com</a>. I order two <a title="" target="_blank" href="http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&amp;category=CAR&amp;Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2F115x-x3X1W.htm">1157-R3X1W</a> bulbs. <span></span><br /><span></span><br /></div>  <div><div class="wsite-image wsite-image-border-thin " style="padding-top:10px;padding-bottom:10px;margin-left:0;margin-right:0;text-align:center"> <a href='http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&category=CAR&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2F115x-x3X1W.htm' target='_blank'> <img src="http://www.mys4.org/uploads/4/0/8/5/4085984/502055216.jpg" alt="Picture" style="width:100%;max-width:400px" /> </a> <div style="display:block;font-size:90%">1157-R3X1W LED Bulb from SuperbrightLEDs.com</div> </div></div>  <div>  <!--BLOG_SUMMARY_END--></div>  <div class="paragraph" style='text-align:left;'>When I first got them installed I was a little  disappointed. If you compared the LED to stock the LED looked darker; as  in not as bright. As my eyes adjusted to the darkness of my garage you  really start to notice the true vibrant red of the LED vs. the reddish  orange of the incandescent bulb. Not to mention the LED's fire up a good  half second before the incandescent bulbs. If you think about it that's  half second for the person to stop their car before crashing into for  those emergency stops. Don't seem like that much, but thats 10-20 ft of  difference there if you think about it.<br /><br />Lastly I've noticed no burnt out bulb warning light. I did buy two resistors just in case but I guess I won't need them. I  did take some pics of the taillight running the LED's but there's no  way to really see the difference. So no point of posting them<br /><br />They do sell a slightly higher power bulb called the <a style="" title="" target="_blank" href="http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&amp;category=CAR&amp;Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2F115x-x45-T.htm">1157-R45-T</a>  at $25 a bulb. They offer more of a true 360 degree beam pattern like a  incandescent. Based off the specs, if I was going to do this again I  might recommend to try those first. I just didn't notice them while I  was ordering at the time. I might use them for the rear fogs, reverse  lights, or the turn signal lights, in the future. Will report back  then....</div>  <div><div class="wsite-image wsite-image-border-thin " style="padding-top:10px;padding-bottom:10px;margin-left:0;margin-right:0;text-align:center"> <a href='http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&category=CAR&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2F115x-x45-T.htm' target='_blank'> <img src="http://www.mys4.org/uploads/4/0/8/5/4085984/438178762.gif" alt="Picture" style="width:100%;max-width:400px" /> </a> <div style="display:block;font-size:90%">1157-x45-T LED Bulb from SuperbrightLEDs.com</div> </div></div>  <h2 style='text-align:left;'><span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">**Update**</span><br /></h2>  <div class="paragraph" style='text-align:left;'>Ok, I lied, sorry, you do need to use the load Resistors. I guess it would have help if I started my car to make sure. The bad thing with the 1157 bulbs is that you need two of them per bulb. I only ordered two.<br /><br /><span></span> So I was doing a little testing... and noticed I could have the rear fog fire when I yet the brake and it would not cause the "Brake Light" warning. Then I could use a single load resistor per bulb. Since the LED still doesn't seem to have the same overall brightness, using my rarely used fog lights seem like a better option. I had my wife and a random neighbor walking by and asked if they thought the brake light with the rear fog light was too much... and the all said it was fine. So I have a set of 1156 led bulb ordered from DDMTuning.com as they were running a sale. Yes there are getting shipped from China so I know the quality is like not going to match Superbrightleds.com, but they are selling them for $10 vs. $26 at SBL. I'll post some pics of the final wiring so you have a DIY coming your way soon.<br /></div>  <div><div class="wsite-image wsite-image-border-thin " style="padding-top:10px;padding-bottom:10px;margin-left:0;margin-right:0;text-align:center"> <a href='http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/1156-7506LED' target='_blank'> <img src="http://www.mys4.org/uploads/4/0/8/5/4085984/244447968.gif" alt="Picture" style="width:100%;max-width:308px" /> </a> <div style="display:block;font-size:90%">SB60 1156 LED bulb from DDMTuning.com</div> </div></div>]]></content:encoded></item><item><title><![CDATA[Front Rotors & Pads, Right Rear Bearing, and Rear Swaybar Links. Plus possible Coilpack 2.0t Conversion]]></title><link><![CDATA[http://www.mys4.org/1/post/2012/02/front-rotors-pads-right-rear-bearing-and-rear-swaybar-links-plus-possible-coilpack-20t-conversion.html]]></link><comments><![CDATA[http://www.mys4.org/1/post/2012/02/front-rotors-pads-right-rear-bearing-and-rear-swaybar-links-plus-possible-coilpack-20t-conversion.html#comments]]></comments><pubDate>Fri, 24 Feb 2012 11:28:03 -0800</pubDate><category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category><guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.mys4.org/1/post/2012/02/front-rotors-pads-right-rear-bearing-and-rear-swaybar-links-plus-possible-coilpack-20t-conversion.html</guid><description><![CDATA[The S4 is back under the knife. Finally I'm getting my&nbsp;Power Slot Cryo Slotted Rotors and the&nbsp;&nbsp;Akebono Ceramic brake pads all installed at I.P.M. Auto Services. Also my right rear bearing decides it was going into retirement so that is getting replaced. I just had the rear driver side replace 2 months ago, go figures. Rear Swaybar link are pretty shot so those are going to be replaced as well. And lately the bots th [...] ]]></description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<div  class="paragraph editable-text" style=" text-align: left; ">The S4 is back under the knife. Finally I'm getting my&nbsp;Power Slot Cryo Slotted Rotors and the&nbsp;&nbsp;Akebono Ceramic brake pads all installed at I.P.M. Auto Services. Also my right rear bearing decides it was going into retirement so that is getting replaced. I just had the rear driver side replace 2 months ago, go figures. Rear Swaybar link are pretty shot so those are going to be replaced as well. And lately the bots that adjust the&nbsp;camber are likely going to need to be replaced. I can't remember the technical name of them but my right rear tire was&nbsp;maxed&nbsp;out and my last alignment Firestone could not get it perfectly in spec.<br /><br /></div>  <span class='imgPusher' style='float:left;height:0px'></span><span style=' float: left; z-index: 10; position: relative; ;clear:left;margin-top:0px;*margin-top:0px'><a href='http://www.mys4.org/uploads/4/0/8/5/4085984/798854021_orig.jpg?225' rel='lightbox' onclick='if (!lightboxLoaded) return false'><img src="http://www.mys4.org/uploads/4/0/8/5/4085984/798854021.jpg?225" style="margin-top: 5px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 10px; border-width:1px;padding:3px;" alt="Picture" class="galleryImageBorder" /></a><div style="display: block; font-size: 90%; margin-top: -10px; margin-bottom: 10px; text-align: center;">Image from Audizine member: infinkc <BR>Red 2.0t Coils on B5 Audi S4</div></span> <div  class="paragraph editable-text" style=" text-align: left; display: block; ">As for Coilpack conversion this has been something I've been following for a little while. As we all know the B5 S4 does not have the greatest record when it comes to our expensive Coils and ICM. I have been through 6 coil at this point. The great thing for this conversion is for one, you&nbsp;eliminate&nbsp;your ICM's. Keep in mind that if once of your ICM goes bad you are going to be misfiring on 3&nbsp;cylinders&nbsp;as each ICM controls half the block.&nbsp;The 2.0t coils have them build into either coil, which cost $15-$25 each compared to the stock coils of $50-100 each.&nbsp;<br /><br />Also, the 2.0t coil have a easy twist on/off feature which makes replacing them extremely easy and insanely fast. And lastly they offer a much improved spark. Some Audizine users have said they have gapped their plugs up to&nbsp;.044" to&nbsp;experience&nbsp;a butter smooth idle and power&nbsp;delivery. No results on if this improves MPG but I have a feeling it likely will help maybe 1-2 mpg. To learn more about this conversion feel free to check out&nbsp; <a href="http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/452609-Teaser-2-0T-Coil-packs" target="_blank">http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/452609-Teaser-2-0T-Coil-packs</a>.<br /><br />I just learned that&nbsp;<a href="http://www.034motorsport.com/ignition-solutions-coil-conversion-icm-delete-kit-27t-to-20t-fsi-coils-p-22156.html" target="_blank" title="">034motorsport.com</a>&nbsp;offer the complete kit, but it's a pretty big investment. I might be interested in getting the wiring from them but I'm still pricing around for the coils and checking if a local &nbsp;machine shop could make the brackets if I can find the specs.</div> <hr  style=" clear: both; visibility: hidden; width: 100%; "></hr>  ]]></content:encoded></item><item><title><![CDATA[We Got Snow!]]></title><link><![CDATA[http://www.mys4.org/1/post/2012/01/we-got-snow.html]]></link><comments><![CDATA[http://www.mys4.org/1/post/2012/01/we-got-snow.html#comments]]></comments><pubDate>Mon, 16 Jan 2012 12:03:33 -0800</pubDate><category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category><guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.mys4.org/1/post/2012/01/we-got-snow.html</guid><description><![CDATA[If you've been following my blog for a while you know we don't get snow often in the Seattle area. Well, we finally got some and of course I'm not going to miss my chance to take the S4 our for some fun... I'll add more picture later this week.Also I'm still looking for a hood. Let me know if you got one for same that is the same color. Thanks!   [...] ]]></description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<div  class="paragraph editable-text" style=" text-align: left; ">If you've been following my blog for a while you know we don't get snow often in the Seattle area. Well, we finally got some and of course I'm not going to miss my chance to take the S4 our for some fun... I'll add more picture later this week.<br /><br />Also I'm still looking for a hood. Let me know if you got one for same that is the same color. Thanks!</div>  <div ><div class="wsite-image wsite-image-border-thin " style="padding-top:0;padding-bottom:10px;margin-left:0;margin-right:0;text-align:center"> <a href='http://www.mys4.org/uploads/4/0/8/5/4085984/2256006_orig.jpg' rel='lightbox' onclick='if (!lightboxLoaded) return false'> <img src="http://www.mys4.org/uploads/4/0/8/5/4085984/2256006_orig.jpg" alt="2001 Audi S4 in the Snwo" style="width:100%;max-width:1100px" /> </a> <div style="display:block;font-size:90%">2001 Audi S4 in the Snow</div> </div></div>  ]]></content:encoded></item><item><title><![CDATA[Don't buy from DDMTuning.com]]></title><link><![CDATA[http://www.mys4.org/1/post/2012/01/dont-buy-from-ddmtuningcom.html]]></link><comments><![CDATA[http://www.mys4.org/1/post/2012/01/dont-buy-from-ddmtuningcom.html#comments]]></comments><pubDate>Wed, 11 Jan 2012 15:24:34 -0800</pubDate><category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category><guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.mys4.org/1/post/2012/01/dont-buy-from-ddmtuningcom.html</guid><description><![CDATA[I've had nothing but good&nbsp;experience&nbsp;with them when installing my past 4 hid kits, two on my car, one on VW Jetta, and anther on a Honda CRV. This time when getting another kit for my dad's F-150 they sent me the wrong color of bulbs in additional the bulb backing crack creating a poor seal to the headlamps. After contacting DDM Tuning they would only replace the entire kit and not just the bulbs. I explain to them that  [...] ]]></description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<div  class="paragraph editable-text" style=" text-align: left; ">I've had nothing but good&nbsp;experience&nbsp;with them when installing my past 4 hid kits, two on my car, one on VW Jetta, and anther on a Honda CRV. This time when getting another kit for my dad's F-150 they sent me the wrong color of bulbs in additional the bulb backing crack creating a poor seal to the headlamps. After contacting DDM Tuning they would only replace the entire kit and not just the bulbs. I explain to them that was not nessary since the bulbs just need to be replaced. I ask if I could just purchase replacement bulbs and they could refund the broken bulbs once they were shipped back. They replied back saying they were not willing to do that. I sent a reply asking why they could not do that and no reply for the past 5 days. Good thing my father works for a law firm (<a href="http://www.perkinscoie.com/" style="">http://www.perkinscoie.com/</a>). I guess we will be taking legal action unless they reply in the next 48 hours.</div>  <div >  <!--BLOG_SUMMARY_END--></div>  <h2  style=" text-align: left; ">Messages To and From DDM</h2>  <div  class="paragraph editable-text" style=" text-align: left; ">From: Todd Nappen<br />Posted On: 03 Jan 2012 6:19 PM<br /><br /><br />Let me first say that I've install 4 hid kits in the past couple of year on various cars so I would like to say I'm a somewhat experienced HID kit installer if that is proper label I can give myself. This last kit which I ordered for my dad's 2005 F-150 is having issues with the bulbs.&nbsp;<br /><br />First, one of the bulb plastic backing crack so that it does not make a tight seal when twisted into the headlamp. Currently we are using duct tape as a temporary solution to keep water out. Keep in mind we live near Seattle, WA so we get lots of rain, so water is a issue. The plastic is very brittle compared to other DDM bulbs I've used with other kits. I should have taken picture so you can see the damage. I&rsquo;m sorry that I do not have them available<br /><br />Second, the 4500K color looks more like a 5000K or 6000K. When compared to the other cars running 35w kits with 4500k bulbs these bulbs look much blue/white. That slight yellow tint you get with the 4500K is something we need to prevent complete light reflection on wet roads. I know the color is not exact and can vary from headlamp to headlamp but I honestly believe this are mislabeled bulbs.&nbsp;<br /><br />Third and lastly, when we put the headlights in the high beam they appear to work great, but every other time it get stuck in the high beam position and will not go back to the low beams. The only way to reset the bulb is to turn the headlights off and then back on. I&rsquo;ve check the connections and verified that everything was properly wired and had a solid connection. Overall I think the quality of these bulbs is not up to par with bulbs I've gotten in previous kits. I believe you guys offer very high quality kits and I&rsquo;m sure every now and then your manufacture may produce a bad set. I kind request a new set of H13 High / Low, 4500K bulbs shipped to the same address and we can ship back the bad bulbs. You are welcome to place a $15 deposit with the card on file until the bulbs are returned to your location.<br /><br />Thank you!<br />Todd Nappen<br />Order #******-1<br /></div>  <div ><div style="height: 20px; overflow: hidden; width: 100%;"></div> <hr class="styled-hr" style="width:100%;"></hr> <div style="height: 20px; overflow: hidden; width: 100%;"></div></div>  <div  class="paragraph editable-text" style=" text-align: left; ">From Justin<br />Posted On: 04 Jan 2012 3:37 PMHi&nbsp;<br /><br />Todd,<br />Thank you for the email and we apologize for the situation.<br />1) Based on your description of the plastic being brittle, it appears that they may have cooled the plastic too quickly on your specific bulbs which may lead to the plastic being brittle. For the cracked locking ring, we would be more than happy to ship you out a pair of replacements but due to the other issues, you will have to send in the bulbs for our standard warranty exchange.<br /><br />2) Based on your description, it does sound like the 4500k bulbs you had received may be closer to a high 5k bulb since they are mostly white with a small hint of blue in the light emission.<br /><br />3) If both bulbs are get stuck in the high beam position at the same time, it sounds like the control box on the relay is getting stuck on the high beam position.<br /><br />Unfortunately we no longer offer an advanced replacement service and before we send anything out, we will require that you send in the faulty pieces first. Since you had reported your issue within a week, we can provide you with a return shipping label to cover the cost of sending in both the bulbs and the wiring harness. If you would rather not go through the warranty process and wait for replacements, we can also offer to provide you with information to return the kit for a refund. For the refund, we would provide you with a return shipping label and waive our 20% restocking fee due to the defects with the kit.<br /><br />Please let us know if you would like to return the kit for a refund or go forward with our standard warranty policy.<br /><br />We do apologize for the issues you have had with our HID kit and our kits are not normally like the one you had received.<br /><br />Please reply to this email after logging in to the Support Center (www.ddmtuning.com/support/). If you send the reply from your "regular" email, it won't be successful. Please refer to the automated email confirming the ticket for log-in information.&nbsp;<br /><br />Thank you for contacting DDM Tuning<br />Tech Support<br />858-633-2020 x2<br />-Justin, DDM Vista<br /></div>  <div ><div style="height: 20px; overflow: hidden; width: 100%;"></div> <hr class="styled-hr" style="width:100%;"></hr> <div style="height: 20px; overflow: hidden; width: 100%;"></div></div>  <div  class="paragraph editable-text" style=" text-align: left; ">Todd Nappen<br />Posted On: 04 Jan 2012 11:39 PM<br /><br />Justin,<br />That you for the very quick response! I've done some further problem solving and noticed the Hi/Lo issue appears to only be a problem when the f-150 headlights are set to the auto mode. When we manually have the headlights turn on the HI/LO work perfectly. I believe this is a issue with Ford and not the kit. For the time being we would rather just replace the bulbs. I'm up for either purchasing a new pair and doing the refund, or if possible do the replacement and I can ship them back. I would just rather not have to switch the F-150 back to the standard lights if I do not have. Please let me know what route to take from this point on to get this started. Thanks!<br /><br />- Todd Nappen<br /></div>  <div ><div style="height: 20px; overflow: hidden; width: 100%;"></div> <hr class="styled-hr" style="width:100%;"></hr> <div style="height: 20px; overflow: hidden; width: 100%;"></div></div>  <div  class="paragraph editable-text" style=" text-align: left; ">Justin<br />Posted On: 05 Jan 2012 5:21 PM<br /><br />Hi Todd,<br />The issue you are encountering with the automatic lighting feature is normal since this feature is usually not compatible with our HID kits.<br /><br />If you are happy with the color of the bulbs, the fastest resolution would be to ship you a replacement locking ring so you do not have to send anything in to us.<br />If you would like us to ship a replacement locking ring, please submit a photo of the bulb so we know which style of locking ring to ship you.<br /><br />If you are not happy with the color, then you can either do one of two options:<br />1) Purchase another full HID kit and send us the old kit for a full refund.<br />2) Send in your current bulbs and harness so we may replace it under our standard warranty procedure and re-install your halogens so you are not without headlights.<br /><br />Please let us know if you have any other questions.<br /><br />Please reply to this email after logging in to the Support Center (www.ddmtuning.com/support/). If you send the reply from your "regular" email, it won't be successful. Please refer to the automated email confirming the ticket for log-in information.&nbsp;<br /><br />Thank you for contacting DDM Tuning<br />Tech Support<br />858-633-2020 x2<br />-Justin, DDM Vista<br /><br /></div>  <div ><div style="height: 20px; overflow: hidden; width: 100%;"></div> <hr class="styled-hr" style="width:100%;"></hr> <div style="height: 20px; overflow: hidden; width: 100%;"></div></div>  <div  class="paragraph editable-text" style=" text-align: left; ">Todd Nappen<br />Posted On: 05 Jan 2012 6:02 PM<br /><br />Justin,<br /><br />We don't like the color and would rather have 4500k since these appear to be 5000 or 6000k. Can I just purchase the new "H13 Hi/Lo bulbs" from the site (http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/HID-Bulb-Replacements-Pair) and send in the old broken one and receive a refund for the cost of the bulb? Seem a little silly to replace the whole kit when the bulbs just need to be replaced. Let me know.&nbsp;<br /><br />Thanks!<br /><br /></div>  <div ><div style="height: 20px; overflow: hidden; width: 100%;"></div> <hr class="styled-hr" style="width:100%;"></hr> <div style="height: 20px; overflow: hidden; width: 100%;"></div></div>  <div  class="paragraph editable-text" style=" text-align: left; ">Justin&nbsp;&nbsp;<br />Posted On: 06 Jan 2012 4:55 PM<br /><br />Hi Todd,&nbsp;<br />Unfortunately the service you are asking for is no longer offered since we had discontinued our advanced replacement service and policy. I can only provide you with the services that I had listed in the previous email.&nbsp;<br />Another option would be to purchase an extra HID kit to use as spare parts since we do require that we receive the faulty pieces first before we send out replacements.<br /><br /><br />Please reply to this email after logging in to the Support Center (www.ddmtuning.com/support/). If you send the reply from your "regular" email, it won't be successful. Please refer to the automated email confirming the ticket for log-in information.&nbsp;<br /><br />Thank you for contacting DDM Tuning<br />Tech Support<br />858-633-2020 x2<br />-Justin, DDM Vista</div>  <div ><div style="height: 20px; overflow: hidden; width: 100%;"></div> <hr class="styled-hr" style="width:100%;"></hr> <div style="height: 20px; overflow: hidden; width: 100%;"></div></div>  <div  class="paragraph editable-text" style=" text-align: left; ">Todd Nappen<br />Posted On: 06 Jan 2012 5:14 PM<br /><br />This is getting crazy! There is nothing wrong with the kit I don't need the kit replaced I just want to get the broken bulbs replaced. Why the hell can't I just purchase new bulbs and send back the broken ones and get a refund for the purchased bulbs? I've already zip-tied the harness and glued the ballast within the F-150. Taking out the whole kit is not something I want or need to do. Sending in the whole kit make no sense when I just want the BULBS REPLACED!<br />I'm a long time customer of yours and I do not appreciate how you are handling this. I'm planning on buy another hid kit for my father's fog lights in his 05 F-150 but by the way this is going I'm going to have to find a new supplier. As well I will post my experience of this problem on the many automotive forums I am actively on. I hate being threatening but this is getting stupid. I request this ticket be escalated to a manger and or supervisor immediately.<br /><br /></div>  <div ><div style="height: 20px; overflow: hidden; width: 100%;"></div> <hr class="styled-hr" style="width:100%;"></hr> <div style="height: 20px; overflow: hidden; width: 100%;"></div></div>  <div  class="paragraph editable-text" style=" text-align: left; ">Todd Nappen<br />Posted On: 11 Jan 2012 3:23 PM<br /><br />You guys better not be ignoring my request. 5 days since my last message and no reply. Understand this kit was installed on my father's truck. My father, Tim Nappen, works for a law firm called Perkins Coie (http://www.perkinscoie.com/tnappen/) here in Seattle, WA. Do you really want to go down that route? You have 48 hours to reply, and there better be a tracking number included in that reply.&nbsp;<br /><br />Todd Nappen<br />(425) ***-****</div>  ]]></content:encoded></item><item><title><![CDATA[Front Outer Tie Rod Ends Replaced]]></title><link><![CDATA[http://www.mys4.org/1/post/2011/12/tie-rods-replaces.html]]></link><comments><![CDATA[http://www.mys4.org/1/post/2011/12/tie-rods-replaces.html#comments]]></comments><pubDate>Fri, 16 Dec 2011 12:55:59 -0800</pubDate><category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category><guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.mys4.org/1/post/2011/12/tie-rods-replaces.html</guid><description><![CDATA[Both my front outer tie rod ends were bad so I had Erik at I.P.M. Auto Service replace them and an alignment completed at&nbsp;Firestone. Car drives butter smooth now. Looks like my Rotor have been delayed because of high demand, so I likely will not get them installed until next month.&nbsp;Also, anyone that lives around Seattle/Redmond area, Erik is offerin [...] ]]></description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<div  class="paragraph editable-text" style=" text-align: left; ">Both my front outer tie rod ends were bad so I had Erik at <a href="http://www.ipmautoservice.com/" target="_blank">I.P.M. Auto Service</a> replace them and an alignment completed at&nbsp;Firestone. Car drives butter smooth now. Looks like my Rotor have been delayed because of high demand, so I likely will not get them installed until next month.&nbsp;<br /><br />Also, anyone that lives around Seattle/Redmond area, Erik is offering a 15% off discount for any service until the 12/23. There is more info at his site <a href="http://www.ipmautoservice.com/" target="_blank">IPMAutoService.com</a>. Just tell him Todd from MyS4.org referred you.</div>  ]]></content:encoded></item><item><title><![CDATA[New Wheel Bearing.. Next Outer Tie Rod and Front Rotors/Pads]]></title><link><![CDATA[http://www.mys4.org/1/post/2011/12/new-wheel-bearing-next-outer-tie-rod.html]]></link><comments><![CDATA[http://www.mys4.org/1/post/2011/12/new-wheel-bearing-next-outer-tie-rod.html#comments]]></comments><pubDate>Fri, 02 Dec 2011 00:00:00 -0800</pubDate><category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category><guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.mys4.org/1/post/2011/12/new-wheel-bearing-next-outer-tie-rod.html</guid><description><![CDATA[Finally got my driver side rear wheel bearing fixed. This was so bad it was like I was driving on a dirt road at 60mph. The sad thing is that this is the second bearing to go in on the same hub in 2 years. If this one goes bad in the same time frame then my hub is going to need to be replaced. Big thanks to Erik at I.P.M. Auto Service for getting it fixed. Next on my list is to get my passenger side front outer tie rod r [...] ]]></description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<div  class="paragraph editable-text">Finally got my driver side rear wheel bearing fixed. This was so bad it was like I was driving on a dirt road at 60mph. The sad thing is that this is the second bearing to go in on the same hub in 2 years. If this one goes bad in the same time frame then my hub is going to need to be replaced. Big thanks to Erik at I.P.M. Auto Service for getting it fixed. <br /><span></span><br /><span></span>Next on my list is to get my passenger side front outer tie rod replaced. The boot around the end has gone missing and its creaking pretty good when you are going around a corner. Hopefully will have that done before our Christmas drive to Northeastern Oregon.<br /><span></span><br /></div>  <span class='imgPusher' style='float:left;height:0px'></span><span style=' float: left; z-index: 10; position: relative; ;clear:left;margin-top:0px;*margin-top:0px'><a href='http://www.mys4.org/uploads/4/0/8/5/4085984/856793_orig.jpg?99' rel='lightbox' onclick='if (!lightboxLoaded) return false'><img src="http://www.mys4.org/uploads/4/0/8/5/4085984/856793.jpg?99" style="margin-top: 5px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 10px; border-width:1px;padding:3px;" alt="Picture" class="galleryImageBorder" /></a><div style="display: block; font-size: 90%; margin-top: -10px; margin-bottom: 10px; text-align: center;"></div></span> <div  class="paragraph editable-text" style=" display: block; ">Lastly, my new front rotors should be in the mail soon. I got a pair of Power Slot Cryo Slotted Rotors from aspectuning.com. After researching for several hours, getting the Cryo treatment seemed to be a good investment. Our S4's seem to run into a lot of warping issues, so hopefully this will help. I'm going to pair them up with Akebono Ceramic brake pads. Several people from the forums have been swearing by these pads as they leave almost zero dust and perform very nicely. Hopefully these rotors and pad will be a nice combo. I should have a good review in a month or so.</div> <hr  style=" clear: both; visibility: hidden; width: 100%; "></hr>  ]]></content:encoded></item><item><title><![CDATA[Alternator Fixed, New Mechanic in Training]]></title><link><![CDATA[http://www.mys4.org/1/post/2011/08/alternator-fixed-new-mechanic-in-training.html]]></link><comments><![CDATA[http://www.mys4.org/1/post/2011/08/alternator-fixed-new-mechanic-in-training.html#comments]]></comments><pubDate>Wed, 24 Aug 2011 09:25:10 -0800</pubDate><category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category><guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.mys4.org/1/post/2011/08/alternator-fixed-new-mechanic-in-training.html</guid><description><![CDATA[ [...] ]]></description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<span class='imgPusher' style='float:left;height:0px'></span><span style=' float: left; z-index: 10; position: relative; ;clear:left;margin-top:0px;*margin-top:0px'><a href='http://www.mys4.org/uploads/4/0/8/5/4085984/718646_orig.jpg?251' rel='lightbox' onclick='if (!lightboxLoaded) return false'><img src="http://www.mys4.org/uploads/4/0/8/5/4085984/718646.jpg?251" style="margin-top: 5px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 10px; border-width:1px;padding:3px;" alt="Picture" class="galleryImageBorder" /></a><div style="display: block; font-size: 90%; margin-top: -10px; margin-bottom: 10px; text-align: center;"></div></span> <div  class="paragraph editable-text" style=" text-align: left; display: block; ">Alternator is all fixed! I might be imagining things but the S4 feels a lot stronger. Maybe the old alternator was working hard to produce voltage and taking away some power from the engine. I don't know. Anyway had to re-align the fog lights since they were a little off because the bumper was removed. I think I might have some good help for feature project (see left). My daughter is only 1 (21 months) years old and she figured how to help me install a fog light after watch me with the other one.<br /><br /><span>Anyway, all that is left on the repair list is a possible EGT Sensor and replacing the injector gaskets as one of them has a vacuum leak. Not looking forward to that one as it takes forever to removing the fuel rails, but I've done it before when replacing the Aux Water Pump so hopefully it will go faster. </span><br /></div> <hr  style=" clear: both; visibility: hidden; width: 100%; "></hr>  ]]></content:encoded></item><item><title><![CDATA[Alternator Issues]]></title><link><![CDATA[http://www.mys4.org/1/post/2011/08/alternator-issues.html]]></link><comments><![CDATA[http://www.mys4.org/1/post/2011/08/alternator-issues.html#comments]]></comments><pubDate>Mon, 22 Aug 2011 13:21:04 -0800</pubDate><category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category><guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.mys4.org/1/post/2011/08/alternator-issues.html</guid><description><![CDATA[Well it appears my alternator is on it's way out. The little one was sleeping in the back seat and I was in a parking lot waiting for my wife to come out of the store when my radar detector flashed low voltage. It does that from time to time but usally a power cycle will fix it. This time it did not. A min later the battery light on my car flashed on. This is the first time I've seen that icon. Looked at the ScanGuageII and it say [...] ]]></description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<div  class="paragraph editable-text" style=" text-align: left; ">Well it appears my alternator is on it's way out. The little one was sleeping in the back seat and I was in a parking lot waiting for my wife to come out of the store when my radar detector flashed low voltage. It does that from time to time but usally a power cycle will fix it. This time it did not. A min later the battery light on my car flashed on. This is the first time I've seen that icon. Looked at the ScanGuageII and it says the voltage was 10.1 volts. Oh wow, that's not good. Turned the stereo, blower, and A/C off and volatage went to 11.1 volts. The idle started to get a little ruff so I drove around the block thinking it would help the alternator charge up the battery. Well no luck and the voltage level is starting to dip down again. I guess back to the shop to get it looked at. Currently I'm keeping the battery charged with a battery charger. It seems to be helping for the time being...<br /></div>  ]]></content:encoded></item><item><title><![CDATA[Coolant Leak... again!]]></title><link><![CDATA[http://www.mys4.org/1/post/2011/08/coolant-leak-again.html]]></link><comments><![CDATA[http://www.mys4.org/1/post/2011/08/coolant-leak-again.html#comments]]></comments><pubDate>Wed, 10 Aug 2011 19:53:53 -0800</pubDate><category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category><guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.mys4.org/1/post/2011/08/coolant-leak-again.html</guid><description><![CDATA[Well I got a coolant leak somewhere on the S4. Last weekend when driving to Portland, OR. it started overheating when we were stuck in traffic. I come out to the garage today to find a big puddle of coolant on the floor and zero coolant in the car. Thank god my wife now works at my friend's auto shop... we will see what the issue is now. Also, got a odd electric motor sound. H [...] ]]></description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<div  class="paragraph editable-text" style=" text-align: left; ">Well I got a coolant leak somewhere on the S4. Last weekend when driving to Portland, OR. it started overheating when we were stuck in traffic. I come out to the garage today to find a big puddle of coolant on the floor and zero coolant in the car. Thank god my wife now works at my <a href="http://www.mys4.org/ipm-auto-service.html">friend's auto shop</a>... we will see what the issue is now. <br /><br /><span>Also, got a odd electric motor sound. Hard to explain but it sound like a electric motor running like mad. I don't think it is a bad turbo but something else. I hope it is not the Aux (after run) pump as I just replaced that last summer.</span><br /><br /><span>I'm sorry to say, but once the auto loan is paid off it may be time to find something that is more reliable. Seems the more I baby this car the more it craps on me. The credit card can't take anymore... if you know what I mean.</span><br /><br /><span></span><br /></div>  <div  class="paragraph editable-text" style=" text-align: left; "><span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">Update</span><span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">...</span> So it is just a leak in the reservoir tank. So a easy fix with a new tank. Parts should be in tomorrow and replaced in no time. Likely time to do a coolant flush since it's mostly running on water.<br /></div>  ]]></content:encoded></item><item><title><![CDATA[Bad Coil Pack]]></title><link><![CDATA[http://www.mys4.org/1/post/2011/02/bad-coil-pack.html]]></link><comments><![CDATA[http://www.mys4.org/1/post/2011/02/bad-coil-pack.html#comments]]></comments><pubDate>Fri, 25 Feb 2011 12:39:49 -0800</pubDate><category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category><guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.mys4.org/1/post/2011/02/bad-coil-pack.html</guid><description><![CDATA[When driving home with my wife and 1 year old daughter I noticed some hesitation on normal acceleration. So I did a WOT in 2nd gear and man my car did not like that. It start to misfire really bad. So I continued on home and within 2 block of getting there I lost at least 90% of my power. I barely could get the car in the garage. My ScanGaugeII [...] ]]></description><content:encoded><![CDATA[<div  class="paragraph editable-text" style=" text-align: left; ">When driving home with my wife and 1 year old daughter I noticed some hesitation on normal acceleration. So I did a WOT in 2nd gear and man my car did not like that. It start to misfire really bad. So I continued on home and within 2 block of getting there I lost at least 90% of my power. I barely could get the car in the garage. My <a title="" target="_blank" href="http://www.mys4.org/1/category/scangaugeii/1.html">ScanGaugeII</a> was not picking up any error code so that was not a good sign. Also, my car smelled like sulfur.<br /><br /><span>I call up my friend Erik that owns <a title="" target="_blank" href="http://www.ipmautoservice.com/">I.P.M. Auto Service</a> here in Redmond and ask him if he could bring the Vag-com over. After a quick scan it showed that cylinder 6 was the only one misfiring. We took out the spark plug and it looked just fine. So we swapped in a old OEM coil pack that I had kept just in case. Fired up the S4 and it was running fine. First time I was able to get something fixed in under a hour and at no cost. </span><br /><br /><span></span><span>What's odd is that all of my coil packs were replaced 2 years ago/30,000 miles so they are not old at all. They are the Beru brand so maybe the quality is not that great. Hopefully the rest of them are ok and stay that way for a while.</span><span></span></div>  ]]></content:encoded></item></channel></rss>

