Well I got a 3 inch dent in my hood. My little brother in his CRV backed into me while we were installing a HID kit. I didn't notice the dent until a week later. I will post a picture soon.

If you know of anyone that has a Santorin Blue Hood whether its for a S4 or A4 let me know. Send a message here.

Update: Search goes on...
I still have not found a hood. Which is really odd. I figured there would be one in a junk yard around Seattle and nothing. I may have to see if I can go the PDR (paintless dent repair) route.
 
 
I know I live in the Seattle area. We don't get much snow normally. This year we have the high chance of having the coldest winter in 50 years. So what does that mean? Maybe 12 inches or more of snow for the winter season. I know it's not a lot. The problem is when a storm hits, pretty much the entire western side of the state shuts down. We don't have enough snow plows nor enough money to really operate them. That being said and having a 1 year old in a one car family, I would say it is important that we are able to get to the place we need to get to no matter the conditions. Plus it is just fun driving around in the snow.... as long as the rest of the state stays off the roads. People around here don't prepare for snow and don't have a clue how to drive in it. Anyways I got these tires off of TireRack.com for about $162 per tire (including shipping). I order them on 11/16 and got them on 11/18... and that was with the cheapest shipping option. I was impressed.

Once we get a storm I will let you know what I think of them. The only think I've notice as of right now is the tires feel very light vs my all-seasons Falken Ziex ZE 912. My thoughts are the side walls are likely not going to be as stiff but that's ok. As long as I don't crack any more rims like I did two years ago when we had a bad storm.
Update: Well we just got our first snow storm this season last night (11/22/2010). I have to say these tires are very good in compact snow and ice. Great grip for braking. I took the S4 out for some fun last night in a parking lot and I have to say that this tires kind of take out the fun in drifting because the grip so well. We did not get enough snow to see how they handle in deep power but I'm sure that they will do well. Anyway, I highly recommend them.

 
 
I wanted to do this over a year ago and just never got around to it. I had ordered the fog bulbs (H7) a long time ago when I upgrade my headlights to the 55w DDM Slim Ballast kit but found out the hard way my stock HID ballast would not work with the bulbs that I had ordered. So I order the Apexcone Raptor HID Kit from DDMTuning, which are about twice the width of the Slim ballast kit. I wish I had gotten the Slim Ballast kit because finding a area to put the ballast and not block air flow to the intercooler was not easy. I finally settled on placing them under the intercooler ducting and the inside lower part of the bumper. Kind of hard to explain. Either way they are out of sight and should stay pretty dry. The fog lamp housing requires a little modifications to get the HID bulb and wiring to working. I'll try to post some pictures to show you what I did. After some quick wiring I got everything fired up. I was surprised to find out that the beam pattern is pretty sharp for the fog lamps. Almost comparable to a projected headlamp (meaning: using optical lens). I re-adjusted the fog lamps levels to make sure they were not pointed to high. With 55w HID headlamps (compared to stock 35w kit) and 35w HID fogs, the last thing I want to do is blind people and or get pulled over by the local authorities. So they have a 10-15 degrees downward angle similar to the headlamps.

I took it for a test drive and living around Seattle, WA it was raining hard. The conditions were perfect since 3000K is a true yellow color so it helps illuminate the road better then other color ranges in wet or foggy conditions. At first, I was a little disappointed that they weren't brighter but then realized that this ballast kit aren't as quick to warm up vs. my the Slim Ballast kit. I would say they take 30-45 seconds vs the 5-10 seconds for my headlamps. The color starts off as a warm white color and then gradually turns to a true rally car like yellow. Once they are fully warmed up they work perfectly with the headlamps. The 4500k kit in the headlight is great at distance while the 3000k in the fog really brings out the road 20-30 feet from the front of the car.

In summary, I'm really happy with the overall setup. If you live in a wet or foggy area I would highly recommend this setup. I hope to have pictures up in the next week. If you have any questions feel free to post a comment below.

Pictures of the Install

Audi S4 2.7t Foglights
The picture above show a unmodified fog lamp on the left and a modified one on the right. Notice the difference at the top. Basically you cut off the top connector so that you can route the HID wires out the back.
Lower Bumper of a 2001 Audi S4 2.7t
This picture is indirectly show where I placed the ballast. If you click on the picture to view the larger size you will see toward the bottom center right area two horizontal cuts in the intercooler ducting. That is where I places the ballast. I place the other one on the other side of the car in the same location. A simple zip tie is holding it in place. The down side of putting the ballasts here is if you are lowered and you bumper hits drive ways often you run the risk of damaging the ballast. This is why I recommend getting the Slim kit from DDM Tuning if you do decide to do this upgrade. With the Slim kit you can install the Ballast directly behind or above the fog lamp. If you are wondering, yes I did put lamin-x film on my fog lamps. I went with the smoked color. During the day time the film really help blend the fog lights into the surrounding lower bump.
2001 Audi S4 2.7t with 3000K HID Fog Lights
Here is a front of what the 3000K HID fogs look like. A nice clean yellow just as I wanted it. And yes I did the independent fog light modification.
2001 Audi S4 with 4500k HID headlights and 3000k HID foglights
And here is my 55watt 4500k HID's headlights with the 35watt 3000K HID's.
 
 
I'm sorry this took so long to get up. I know a lot of you have been asking for this video and I wanted to make sure it wasn't crap. I also wanted to make sure the exhaust was fully broken in. I do have to say that Audi did a great job keeping engine and exhaust noise out of the cabin because it wasn't until I make this video did I really notice what this exhaust system sounded like. I how you guys in enjoy the video!
 
 
It appears my driver side EGT (exhaust gas temperature) sensor has gone bad. The passenger side is record the temperature normally and changes as the car warms up and cools down. The driver side get to a set tempature and then just stays there and does not move. The car does have a slight misfire and my thoughts are maybe is this is screwing up the air to fuel ratio. I found on ECS Tuning's site you can get a pair for $299. Next pay check I'll be ordering them.
 
 
Not a lot has happen for 6 months now since my wife and I having our daughter. Family first! I did get a second job so a little money is finally going to the S4. Got my A/C working again since the compressor switch failed. Had to take off the front end to get to it. Thanks again for the help from my buddy Erik at I.P.M. Auto Service

Went to Dan Fast Muffler & Brake and got a 3 inch custom cat-back Magnaflow exhaust installed. I did get a resonator install just so it wasn't too loud. So far it is sounding great! I know over time the sound will change so we will wait and see what it sounds like several months later. I do have to say the S4 for sure feel much more torque'e... if that is a word. Most people say they feel more power at the top end with a exhaust but I feeling it more a the bottom end. Maybe it is helping the turbos spool up faster. It was around $550 for parts and labor so I'm happy with the end result!
Custom Magnaflow 3inch Catback Exhaust on a 2001 Audi S4 2.7 biturbo
Custom Magnaflow 3inch Catback Exhaust on a 2001 Audi S4 2.7 biturbo
 
 
This isn't car related but November 9th my wife and had our first baby at 2:15pm. Kayleigh is 7 pounds and 19 inches long.  Now we got to find a second car, like a Audi Allroad around $8k or under. If anyone knows of a good one, please let me know.

I had started noticing the S4 starting up slow (cranking slow). My first thought was the battery was going out. Had it checked out and it was just fine. The next conclusion was that the starter was dying. The day before Thanksgiving after going into the store I came back out to the car and it would not start. I would hear a click but not crank. So the starter finally died on me. Had my wife jump in the front seat and I started pushing the car to see if we could do compression start. Sure enough we got it started up via compression. After taking my car to my friends shop I.P.M. Auto Service the problem was cause by a leaking rear main seal. Basically the starter was filled up with oil. So got the started replaced and the oil leak fixed as well. They also noticed a leak in a power steering piping so we had that replaced since it was only a $40 part. They must have also clear some electrical terminals because my headlights are now super bright. Anyway the S4 is back up and running and I'm happy.

I've owner this S4 for two years. I won't lie, it has been expensive, but as the saying goes "you gotta pay to play". Well worth it! But feel free visit some of the advertisers on my site... that will help the "paying" part for me.... Thanks!

Pictures of my interior LED lighting below:
 
 
Audi S4 2.7t B5 Auxiliary Water Pump
I get a call from the wife saying the coolant light is flashing and the car is starting to steam. Oh fun. I get the car over to my friends shop I.P.M. Auto Service and we start looking for the source of the leak. My first thought is that it's the after run coolant pump (Auxiliary Water Pump) which is a known problem with these car. A few mins later we find the leak and it was the after run coolant pump.

The fun part is that it's not easy to get to. If you haven't dealt with this problem before the pump is basically in the center of the engine under the intake manifold. Not as hard as changing the turbos or replacing a timing belt but still time consuming. To get to it we had to remove: intake piping, fuel rail, bipipe, air box, mass air flow sensor, throttle body, and lastly the intake manifold... plus unplug 20 or more electrical connections and several vacuum lines. 4 hours later and all of that out of the way the broken pump pops out in 5 seconds. I wish I had taken a picture but basically one of the ends of the pump connected to a hose had completely cracked off the pump, leaving the pump blades exposed. Got the new pump in and another 4 hours later the car was back up and running. Not a hard job, just a timing consuming job. Big thanks to Erik at I.P.M. Auto Service for getting the new pump out so quickly and guiding me through this repair.

On a related note, I've been having a problem in which I would have cruise control activated and it would buck back in forth while going down hills. It was like the car could not decide if it should increase or decrease the throttle input. You could watch the boost gauge and watch the needle just bounce around like it was doing some sort of dance. During the pump replacement I completely cleaned out the throttle body so I'm guessing cleaning the throttle body fixed the problem. Something to keep in mind if you run into a similar problem. *Update: Problem came back... so nevermind.

 
 
I did the Seaform intake cleaning not to be confused with the oil/sluge removal way. I've done it a couple of time in the past on my MK3 Jetta VR6 but this was my first time on the S4. Super easy to do on the S4 since the vacuum line to use is the same one connected to the Boost gauge. I do want to add to the existing DIY's out there, is that you need a second person to do this. Luckly my wife was willing to help. Basically you need the second person to keep the car reving around 1500 RPM's. If you try to do it with the car at idle the car will die. Anyway, since this was the first time for the S4 there was a huge smoke show. I wish I had taken some pictures. Looks like my car was on fire or something but that's just how it works. After letting it sit for 15 mins I drove maybe 20 miles before all of the seafoam was cleared out (smoked stopped). The car for sure seems to have a lot more low end tq and the fuel economy has improved maybe 1-2 more mpg. I recommend this for anyone wanting to make sure there car is running in top shape. Here is a link to the Audi S4 Seafoam treatment DIY I used.

Also changed the Oil Filter. Nothing too exciting this month.
 
 
My wife is driving home from work in our S4 and is just about to get onto the highway on-ramp when the car dies. She tries and tries but the car would not start. It was acting as if it was out of gas but it had more then half a tank. As I'm on the phone I tell her to try and switch to the stock APR program to see if that help. If you have the APR software you know you can switch it with the cruise control and can pick the problem by the number of times the CEL flashes. Well after holding the cruise control button for 60 seconds the CEL was not flashing. First thing that comes to mind is that the ECU is dead. Long story short I get a ride out there and my friend Erik that owns I.P.M. Auto Service meet met out with no luck getting the car started. His Vag-com kept getting a message of "unable to communicate with ECU". At that point it was becoming clear that either a relay(s) that powers the ECU was not working or the ECU was completely dead itself.

I get the S4 towed to his shop and we check all of the fuses and relays to find all were good. Next day after talking with Achtuning I get to borrow a ECU to see if the car would start. Sure enough plug it in and the car fire right up. So I buy this ECU from them and the car is good to go.

With the ECU I got from Achtuning it came with MTM software vs. APR software. I'm actually liking the MTM software better since I'm boosting around 18-20psi vs. the APR software boosting around 15-16 psi.